Ben & Jen's 2023 Scotland Trip

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8/5/2023 (Sat)
LAX Delta One
8/6/2023 (Sun)
Premier Inn London Euston
The Bull & Gate
8/7/2023 (Mon)
Caledonian Sleeper
Fortum and Mason
The British Library
The National Gallery
The Wolseley High Tea
8/8/2023 (Tue)
Alamo Inverness
Ambiance Cafe
Grace Studio
Hydro Ness
Inverness Botanical Gardens
Leakey's Bookshop
Mustard Seed
River Ness Walk
The Highland Malt Whisky Experience
The Malt Room
The Victorian Market
Town of Inverness
8/9/2023 (Wed)
Cuil Lodge Bed and Breakfast
Driving in the Highlands
Edinbane Lodge Restaurant
Farm Ness
Landour Bakery
Lochcarron Scarves
Skye Highland Games
The Isle of Skye
8/10/2023 (Thu)
Balsporran Bed and Breakfast
Dalwhinnie Distillery Tour
Old Man of Storr Hike
Royal Oak
8/11/2023 (Fri)
Carrubber's Close Airbnb
Craigie Deli
Edinburgh Fringe Festival
The Kitchin
Town of Edinburgh
8/12/2023 (Sat)
Royal Tattoo
The Gin Company
The Real Mary's King's Close
The Witchery Restaurant
8/13/2023 (Sun)
Arthur's Seat Hike
Bounce Luggage Storage
Dalhousie Castle
Rocksalt Cafe
The Dungeon Restaurant at Dalhousie Castle
8/14/2023 (Mon)
Falconry Scotland
Mirabilis Apartments
8/15/2023 (Tue)
Roti King
The British Museum
The Umbrella Project
8/16/2023 (Wed)
Heathrow Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Check in and Clubhouse

8/5/2023 (Sat)
LAX Delta One [Directions]

Champagne curbside entry to LAX. Private security screening. Direct entry into the Delta One Club without otherwise entering the terminal.

We actually were a tiny bit lost and rambled around without luggage looking for the Delta One entry, so here is the hint: you will drive up to it. Look for the signs and the frosted glass doors outside of terminal 3 arrivals. It might be a few feet past the luggage carousels. The agents will collect your bags and passports there, hand you a glass of champagne (other snacks and beverages available), check you in while you relax in one of the lounge chairs and hand deliver the passports and tickets. Literally, Ben was on a call relaxing in a lounge chair while we were checked in. No struggling with your bags through the terminal seeking the check-in desk, not standing at the check-in desk. Pure relaxation from the moment of stepping out of the car. Not that I mind hauling my bags through the airport or standing at the desk, but it was a lovely way to start a trip and would be really wonderful in certain circumstances. Delta One has private security screening. We were the only passengers at that time and were through in seconds and only a few seconds later strolling into the Delta One Lounge. The Delta One lounge is very civilized. There was plenty of space, charging ports, two (identical) food buffets, showers, an outdoor area, and Rice Krispies treats. We took a shower there. Basically a five-minute wait and the agent texted us that the shower was ready. There will be a walk and a bus from the Delta One Terminal to Tom Brady International Terminal, so build an extra 10 minutes in to get from the Lounge to the Boarding Gate, however, even this was fast and efficient.


8/6/2023 (Sun)
Premier Inn London Euston [Directions]

Basic Lodging

The room was small but clean. We were able to store our luggage. The hotel was quite close to Euston Station. It was perfectly satisfactory and I have no complaints.


The Bull & Gate [Directions]

Pub that serves Sunday Roast

Ben and I wanted to experience a Sunday Roast. This food was good and filling. I would consider it "comfort" type food.


8/7/2023 (Mon)
Caledonian Sleeper [Directions]

Overnight train from London to Inverness. Has sleeper cars.

Ben and I opted for the romantic double sleeper car. It was lovely. The room is tiny and does not have much storage. We were able to make it work with two large (check-in-sized) bags, but carry-on-sized luggage would work better. The breakfast the next morning was uninspiring. even so, the experience of snuggling on an overnight train was completely worth it


Fortum and Mason [Directions]

Adorable shop which sells over priced picnic goods, snacks and treats.

Ben and I were very happy to have picnic food at various times during the trip. This store is expensive, however, the goods are lovely and very tasty. Even though it was expensive, we might have saved money going here because it allowed us to skip lunch and snack breaks, and have snacks for hiking and picnics and treats for a drive where we were unable to stop because of logistics. This would be a good place to shop for gifts if needed. There is a location in terminal 3 at Heathrow for last-minute gift shopping if needed.


The British Library [Directions]

Library with a museum that contains historic documents such as the Magna Carta, Historic Religious Texts, and early printings of Shakespeare's plays. Free admission with the option to donate.

We spent about 60-90 minutes in the museum. It was impressive. The gift shop is quite nice.


The National Gallery [Directions]

Collection of European masterpieces

I should rave about this, but I think I've just seen too many Picassos.


The Wolseley High Tea [Directions]

Lovely restaurant that also serves High Tea.

This restaurant had the best vegetarian tea sandwiches that I have ever had.


8/8/2023 (Tue)
Alamo Inverness [Directions]

Rental Car Agency. Alamo and Enterprise work as one operation in Inverness

This is the only agency that we found that would allow for a one way rental from Inverness to Edinburgh. From that perspective it was great. We had some confusing correspondence with them and some lack of flexibility. For example, we asked if we could pick the car up the next morning (paying for the day that we were giving up) and they would have considered the rental to be forfeited entirely.


Ambiance Cafe [Directions]

Restuarant in the Victorian Market, Inverness

We were hungry and tired. This was probably the worst meal we had in Scotland. It was more boring than "bad."


Grace Studio [Directions]

Inverness Airbnb

Very cute, clean and comfortable. Had an adorable fairy garden


Hydro Ness [Directions]

Hydro-electrical dam and mini-outdoor museum

What should have been a fun and educational visit was instead boring and frustrating. It was not running when we visited in August 2023.


Inverness Botanical Gardens [Directions]

Small botanicals gardens with cute cafe

We were fairly tired because jetlag was hitting us hard on that day. The botanical gardens were a nice break on our walk to refuel on much-needed coffee. The gardens themselves are quite small.


Leakey's Bookshop [Directions]

Cute used bookshop

We didn't feel like we wanted to spend more than 5 or 10 minutes here. It is a great place to get out of the rain or kill some time but I could not locate any vintage book that I would have been excited about. It did have a great selection of vintage prints.


Mustard Seed [Directions]

Restuarant in Inverness

This restaurant came highly recommended, including by our taxi driver. While our meal was rushed (our fault; not theirs), it was lovely. Absolutely worth eating at in Inverness.


River Ness Walk [Directions]

Beautiful Walk from the town of Inverness

I really enjoyed this walk. It is really quite flat and an easy walk, which was appreciated because we were quite jetlagged. The paths zigzag along River Ness and there are quaint bridges that cross the river onto a small island.


The Highland Malt Whisky Experience [Directions]

Whisky tasting and accordian - location in MacGreger's

This was a great way to taste whisky and learn Scottish history. The host sang and told stories between descriptions of the 5 whiskies we were tasting.


The Malt Room [Directions]

A great place for whisky! Huge selection and knowledgable staff.

Sadly, we were exhausted when we were here, so didn't get to fully enjoy it, but the staff was knowledgeable, the selection was giant, and the whisky was lovely.


The Victorian Market [Directions]

Market with gift shops and restaurants

Go to the chocolate shop for the whisky chocolates.


Town of Inverness [Directions]

Cute town in the Highlands

The town was a bit boring during the day. The nightlife was fun. Ben and I were extremely jetlagged the day that we were in Inverness, so we might have enjoyed it more if not so tired.


8/9/2023 (Wed)
Cuil Lodge Bed and Breakfast [Directions]

B&B in Skye with Ocean Front Views

We stayed in a charming room, which had a view of a bay and the ferryboat landing.


Driving in the Highlands [Directions]

Beautiful scenary, narrow roads with no shoulder. Not for the feint of heart!

The drives in Skye are extraordinarily lovely. Sheep and goats are not only dotting the emerald green pastures, they are crossing the road as if to give a friendly salutation as they pose for photos. The Highland Cows are even more photogentic! The road are very narrow and can be quite disconcerting. The roads also are unlit and there is a zero alcohol consumption before driving law throughout Scotland, so a DD is a must if enjoying the nightlife or a dinner out.


Edinbane Lodge Restaurant [Directions]

Farm to Table Ultra Local Fine Dining Restaurant

Lovely Tasting menu. Everything was delightful. Every item on the menu was listed on a sourced location card, with notes such as sea vegetables forged by the chef's cousin 3 miles away.


Farm Ness [Directions]

A lovely stop between Inverness and Loch Ness. Visit with goats, alpacas, pigs, and highland cows.

We were quite lucky because we happened upon Farm Ness right at the livestock's breakfast time and were invited to feed the furry critters. Highlights: hand-feeding the llamas and holding the baby goat!


Landour Bakery [Directions]

Coffee Shop on the way to Skye

An especially delicious tomato and onion tart and latte. Great place to refuel on caffeine and take a break on the drive to Skye.


Lochcarron Scarves [Directions]

Woven-goods shop

Beautiful scarves and woven goods (blankets and kilts) at a reasonable price.


Skye Highland Games [Directions]

Highland games with caber toss

We had a picnic and relaxed watching the local games. The highlight was the caber toss.


The Isle of Skye [Directions]

Region in Northwest Scotland accessible by bridge. The Isle is amazingly quaint with magical scenery. Great hiking.

A 4+ hour drive from Edinburgh, not for the feint of heart. The roads are extremely narrow and unlit I would almost rate this a 3 if it was not otherwise a challenge. If you love hiking, as I do, I would say that going to the Isle of Skye is a must-do, plan your trip around getting here and try to spend at least a few days here to really be able to enjoy all of the hiking that Skye offers


8/10/2023 (Thu)
Balsporran Bed and Breakfast [Directions]

A B&B nearly exactly in the dead center of Scotland.

This vegetarian B&B was a very nice place to stay on our way back across the country. Little wooden mice hidden in the room were a nice touch.


Dalwhinnie Distillery Tour [Directions]

Tour and tasting at the Dalwhinnie Distillery

Distillery tours are pretty standard. This one more than most. It was perfectly fine but absolutely not worth going out of your way for, even if you love Dalwhinnie whisky.


Old Man of Storr Hike [Directions]

Hike in Skye. Beautiful vistas.

Hiking is Jen's favorite activity, but this was a particular wonderful hike. The views as you climb up and down the hill are stunning.


Royal Oak [Directions]

Edinburgh Pub with Live Music

Crowded. Great Whisky and great atmosphere. We absolutely loved the live music.


8/11/2023 (Fri)
Carrubber's Close Airbnb [Directions]

Accomodations right off the Royal Mile

The location cannot be beat. This is a tough walk from the train station being uphill with stairs. The unit was lovely. On the fourth floor, which was challenging with luggage but otherwise pleasant.


Craigie Deli [Directions]

Small Farm Store outside Edinburgh

Sells amazing products. This would be a great place to get picnic supplies if heading towards the Highlands.


Edinburgh Fringe Festival [Directions]

Alternative Arts Festival featuring comedians, circus arts, improv, magicians and burlesque.

There are approximately 30,000 shows during the months of August. We only saw five shows, but they were great, ranging from enjoyable to side-splitting laughter. If we wanted to, we could attend 10+ shows per day.


The Kitchin [Directions]

Tom Kitchin's ode to the best of Scottish produce is a joy to visit and well deserving of it's Michilin's star.

This was the best meal that we had in Scotland. In fact, I would dare to say that my main was possibly my favorite dish ever. Vegetarians rejoice! We are certainly not treated as an afterthought by Tom Kitchin!


Town of Edinburgh [Directions]

Charming Capital City of Scotland

The people are friendly and the town offers plenty of variety in day-time activities and nightlife.


8/12/2023 (Sat)
Royal Tattoo [Directions]

International Military Band Performance featuring Bagpipes

We were surprised at how much we enjoyed the performance. There was a variety of military bands, including a steel drum band from Trinidad and Tobago.


The Gin Company [Directions]

A liquor store with a focus on Gin

Scottish gin gets eclipsed but Scottish whisky but is deserving of more attention. This shop gives it that attention. The staff was passionate and helpful.


The Real Mary's King's Close [Directions]

A tour of houses and a street closed off in the 18th century

A tour guide took us through the buildings and told us the stories of the people who lived and died in these buildings. It really made the history come alive. (Although the plague stories hit a little too close to home.)


The Witchery Restaurant [Directions]

Upscale restaurant just below the Edinburgh castle

While highly recommended, this disappointed. It is a lovely venue but the food did not match.


8/13/2023 (Sun)
Arthur's Seat Hike [Directions]

Hike with pretty views over the city

This easy hike from the bottom end of the Royal Mile takes you back up above everything and gives you a chance to look down on the entire old town, even the castle.


Bounce Luggage Storage [Directions]

Luggage storage near the Waverly train station

Our final day in Edinburgh was actually outside of town at the Dalhousie castle. Rather than lug our rather extensive luggage all the way back, we left our bigger bags here. Drop off and pick up was easy.


Dalhousie Castle [Directions]

An actual castle converted into a hotel.

This lovely 13th Century Castle was previously host to Queen Victoria and several ghosts. We sadly saw neither. The woods surrounding the castle made for a lovely walk.


Rocksalt Cafe [Directions]

Deli cafe on Jeffrey Street

One of our few unplanned meals on this trip and a great success. This lovely cafe is reasonably priced and has great food. Plus, it's location, just off the Royal Mile, is extremely convenient.


The Dungeon Restaurant at Dalhousie Castle [Directions]

Restaurant in the converted dungeon of Dalhousie Castle

Expecting a fun gimmick, we were surprised but a lovely meal. A great way to finish our evening at the castle.


8/14/2023 (Mon)
Falconry Scotland [Directions]

A home for owls, hawks, falcons and eagles

Located on the grounds of the Dalhouise castle, this was a lovely way to spend about an hour. We got to have the falcons land and launch off our arms and got to also meet the eagle and very cute owls.


Mirabilis Apartments [Directions]

Apartment Style Accomodations

This hotel is designed for long-term stays with a full kitchen and a washer/dryer, but was equally nice for a quick stay. Location is particularly convenient.


8/15/2023 (Tue)
Roti King [Directions]

Malaysian Food

Makes homemade Roti in front of you - out of this world!


The British Museum [Directions]

Amazing collection with a library in the middle.

Major historic and artistic works from possibly every civilization. The British Museum offers an option to tour via an app or website using personal phones, however, we opted to do the 90-minute Rick Steves tour. It was really hot in the museum when we visited in August.


The Umbrella Project [Directions]

Amazing Bar and Off-License

How do I describe this little gem of a bar except by "Wow!" Ben and I wanted to bring back some Chartreuse from London since the US is experiencing a shortage. Ben located The Umbrella Project as an off-license that would sell us a bottle and placed an order for pick-up. We noted their address and tramped through the streets of London with Google maps leading the way. The first glimmer of excitement came when we reached our supposed destination according to Google and were standing in front of an apartment building - no shop or bar nearby. Looking closer at the map, we discovered that the bar might be tucked away somewhere inside the residential complex. Venturing forth, we crept into the cloistered courtyard to discover something remarkable: a tiny candle-lit room, floor-to-ceiling exotic liquor and a barkeep passionate about his trade. He concocts delights of his invention that you will find nowhere else, with ingredients such as: gin distilled from rum made from the nectar of fairy wings and infused with cherries guarded by unicorns. (Okay - I am exaggerating a bit, but the ingredients were all special and unique.) Ben and I had to sample two cocktails each, purely for research purposes, and they were all memorable….Oh, and we were able to bring home that bottle of Chartreuse!


8/16/2023 (Wed)
Heathrow Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Check in and Clubhouse [Directions]

Curbside entry into Heathrow with private security screening. Short walk through duty free and the terminal to the Virgin Clubhouse. Clubhouse has a food buffet and table service via ordering on an app, quiet zone chairs and 3 peloton bikes.

The curbside entry and private screening were lovely. An agent picked up our bags from the Uber and took them directly to the check-in desk a mere few feet from the entry. The private security was a bit busy. We waited approximately 10 minutes to get through security in a very civilized line. The clubhouse was one of my favorite lounges because of the Peloton Bikes. I jumped on one and was able to burn a bit of energy before getting onto the plane. Why don't all airport lounges have exercise bikes or a stretching/yoga space? There was plenty of seating and places to charge phones and devices. I believe that there were showers, but did not need to use them, so I can't really comment on them.